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| My E46 & E30 Kit Car | |
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| Topic Started: Wed 14 Dec 2005, 14:26:52 (1,633 Views) | |
| JazzMan | Tue 1 Aug 2006, 07:45:24 Post #31 |
PE30 Lance Corporal
  ![]](http://209.85.122.89/static/1/pip_r.png)
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Yep really looking forward to getting the body work on, an exhaust built and the wiring finished off! Wont be long now :skid: |
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| JazzMan | Mon 28 Aug 2006, 17:31:19 Post #32 |
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PE30 Lance Corporal
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The last weeks worth of updates: Here's a little sound clip, no back box, just manifold an center resonator: http://www.msportster.co.uk/exhaust.mp3  -------------------------------------- Yesterday we changed the old gearbox mounts with new ones and fitted the battery clamps. Today it was time for some body work: Rear wing fitment - nothing quite seems to line up anywhere on the rear tub so its not bolted down yet. Still need to spend some time jiggling it about.   Wing/door fitment. The space between the wing and the chassis is quite big so we'll need to do a bit more jiggling.  Striker pin stickout out the body work. Probably going to add a washer to move it a tiny bit further out. The body work will need bolting down here too.  Striker pin and body fitment this still needs work.   It really is starting to look like a proper car! ------------------------------------ Back boxes are here!  Too much?  Nah!  ---------------------------------- Exhaust parts arrived today from Jetex.   ------------------------------------------------------------- Been busy working on moving the tank up to make more room for the exhaust boxes. A few issues, go too high and the tank gets in the way of the seat belts, same with the filler. I think it should just work in the current position. The tank need to be moved forwards a bit too so I've trimmed a little off the diff bracket - the shouldn't have any effect on the strenght of this bit as its braced further down.  Just enough room here for the belt - its a bit slack and low in this pic   Lots of room  Rear ARB in place using BMW E36 Compact ARB links   
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| loopylee | Tue 29 Aug 2006, 00:03:03 Post #33 |
PE30 Sergeant Major
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looks like its all comeing togeather mate :bmwdance: lee |
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| Tng21 | Wed 30 Aug 2006, 15:56:01 Post #34 |
PE30 Sergeant 1st Class
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yeah man thats loo9king a lovely little project there, bet sh'll shit like a good en |
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| JazzMan | Thu 31 Aug 2006, 19:41:29 Post #35 |
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PE30 Lance Corporal
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thanks :) , i really cant wait to take it for a drive now. I've done a bit more work on the exhaust. Im hoping with a BBTB, BTB 6 branch, mangnaflow mufflers, BMC CDA & zone chip it will very quick! Chopped the center resonator out of the old two piece exhaust. This is where the 6 branch will connect when I get it. Everything seems to be slowly coming together. The passenger side is too far to the outside of the car with the full 1meter pipe length between the two 30 degree bends. Will shorten this so that its the right size. Noise wise, will have to see what its like, but Jetex sell DB plugs that can go in the long pipes that should quieten it down a bit if needed.   
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| JazzMan | Mon 1 Jan 2007, 19:57:43 Post #36 |
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PE30 Lance Corporal
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It's been a while since I posted about this one, here's what we've been up to in the last few months - also a little engine swap project on my brothers Compact got in the way: http://z14.invisionfree.com/PlanetE30/inde...?showtopic=4573 September: BTB 6 Branch is here! :D Its absolutely stunning!     And on the car:     October: Its been a while since the last up date, other things having gotten in the way of spending time working on the car! Work continues on the exhaust system:    And thanks to Ziggy on E30Zone we now have a spare TSW BSS style alloy to use as a spare:  Probably not the best way to join exhaust pipes but this what we have so it will have to do! Anyway this is how the backboxes will join to the rest of the system at a different height  Another view of the exhaust construct  After some careful taping up this will have to be held under the car again to see how it all fits around the rear axels.  The exhaust has been tacked into place thanks to Black-Cat (from TalkAudio.co.uk)! A little work will be needed to align all the parts, once the exhaust is in the correct place it will be fully welded and ready for the first sound test :D The wiring is close to being finished with the completion of the reverse switch, internal heater and radiator fan wiring. Just waiting for a interior light control unit to complete wiring loom.    Today: The exhaust mock is finally finished! After a complete disaster last year with a shop in Southampton that didnt do their job we've changed plans and created our own exhaust with a BTB 6 branch manifold and two Magnaflow glass packs. The rest of the piping is made of Jetex stainless universal parts.  This week we finished the mock up on the exhaust! Due to Richard's Compact project we've got a MIG welder now! This meant that we could tack weld the bits together! It needed the 35 degree angle replacing with a 45 as the back box on the Y pipe ended up sitting far too far back and there wasn't enough straight parts to move it far enough in. With the 45 everything now fits with just enough adjustment room to get the back boxes aligned.  At some point soon we'll take the parts than need the welding finished off to Black-Cat (a talkaudio regular) who will finish it off properly - not quite read to make nice stainless welds yet after about an hours practice!  We've also re-done the brake pipes at the front and fitted the BMW master cylinder with adapter plate 
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| spudboy | Mon 1 Jan 2007, 23:12:50 Post #37 |
PE30 Staff Sergeant
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found this piccy today, like your project, my dad has had kit cars for years but he has a bad back and sold them, but thought i'd post this piccy to either make you drool or make you tell me to f off and its complicated enough :woohoo:  it isnt mine, its some guy off a forum, hyabusa tb's |
| i think im turning japanese? | |
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| JazzMan | Mon 1 Jan 2007, 23:25:44 Post #38 |
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PE30 Lance Corporal
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very nice :D :D i hope i can indulge in projects like that over the coming years with the sportster. Just reading a book about nitrous oxide ;) i have plans for megasquirt and eventually maybe forced induction and a 2.7 build. |
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| spudboy | Tue 2 Jan 2007, 16:44:22 Post #39 |
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PE30 Staff Sergeant
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and i trust there will be some more videos when its completed, what is the weight of it at the mo? big advantages over the engine in standard cars, dads spartan had a gt6 engine 2 litre straight 6 :LOL: , twin strom carb with no filters, but i think it only had about 115hp? but god damn did it shift, then it was a couple of robin hoods with 2 litre pintos and a moss monaco, but that was a bag of shite :LOL: |
| i think im turning japanese? | |
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| JazzMan | Thu 4 Jan 2007, 12:14:18 Post #40 |
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PE30 Lance Corporal
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Based on other Sportster with the M20 I'm expecting around 850Kg but I'll get the final weight on SVA day! It's going to be pretty rapid :) |
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| spudboy | Thu 4 Jan 2007, 16:45:21 Post #41 |
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PE30 Staff Sergeant
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damn bloody right it will be!!! cant wait to see a vid! on board! your doin a bloody good job, been lookin at this project since i came on here |
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| JazzMan | Sat 6 Jan 2007, 21:58:18 Post #42 |
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PE30 Lance Corporal
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Not quite a driving video but the exhaust is installed, and it sounds great! Possibly a bit loud for SVA. Will test it with DB plugs from Jetex, or possibly install some extra mufflers. But first we'll dig out an SPL meter and see what it reads! Here is the video: Exhaust Video 12Mb Xvid / MP3 |
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| spudboy | Sun 7 Jan 2007, 14:55:07 Post #43 |
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PE30 Staff Sergeant
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thats sounding mint!! lovely tone to it! that should be about right with the test i think, it'll be borderline, got a db meter somewhere from years back, give it me dad after i stopped doing stereo stuff. do they test idle and certain number of revs too or just idle? not got any info on websites i have looked at? |
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| JazzMan | Sun 7 Jan 2007, 18:38:12 Post #44 |
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PE30 Lance Corporal
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Thanks :) I had a play with a db meter today (Radio Shack - my dad bought it in the us 27 years ago!) and on the a weight setting it's idling around 80db 40cm back at a slight angle. On the way up to 4000rpm it peaks over 100db and at 4000 it is in the high 90's. Will really need to keep a close eye on that and do some research on exact testing conditions for SVA. I think it's pretty boarder line right now. I did find blocking one of each of the pipes on either side with my hand made it significantly quieter (by ear anyway) So I may just need to block those off for the test M20 - Power, 170 bhp @ 5800 rpm. Torque, 158 lb-ft @ 4300 rpm Which by my calculation makes tested RPM for SVA on the M20 3867rpm which is 2/3 full power! |
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| spudboy | Sun 7 Jan 2007, 19:20:26 Post #45 |
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PE30 Staff Sergeant
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that doesnt sound too bad actually, i could do mine and see what a standard one is supposed to read at? but from various sites i have seen a limit of 101db at a certain distance from car
i guess that the 6 branch gorgeous manifold you got is gonna release a fair few ponies!!! so any added silencers/blocked pipes arent gonna make that much loss. good luck on the test anyway!! got a geiger counter somewhere too!! but that aint mine :LOL: got lots of russian writing on it and i havent got a clue how to use the thing, my old mans bit of kit for when he goes to power stations doing health and safety checks |
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| JazzMan | Sun 7 Jan 2007, 19:35:48 Post #46 |
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PE30 Lance Corporal
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If it does get too loud long term then I'll add a pair of these: http://www.magnaflow.com/02product/shopexd...one=main&id=652 Straight through design just like two that are already on there :) |
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| JazzMan | Tue 22 May 2007, 08:20:31 Post #47 |
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PE30 Lance Corporal
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 Refitted the tank today with rubber strips and added two additional exhaust hangers just behind the seats. That makes 4 hangers at the back and the one on the gearbox which should be enough fail safes if any of them go.    There should be more than enough room between the tank and the mufflers now. Just need to add a head shield above each one and the exhaust will be done.. or maybe not....  ....spent a bit of time experimenting with noise levels - admittedly inside the garage as the weather was pants! Seems the carbon box is very, very loud! I put the stock air box on the end in addition to the carbon one and the volume when down considerably! May have to re-think that for SVA - or even add the stock airbox for the test if I can fit it in! The exhaust is pretty loud, and I think I may buy two extra mufflers, this time from Jetex and I can't seem to get the magnaflow models I'm after in the UK. The Jetex ones are also a straight through design so I should think it wouldn't have too adverse an effect on the performance of the engine, I think my head will thank me after a longer trip. If I do want to take it on any track day I think I would get black flagged pretty quickly with the current set-up - wish I could take it for a real world test drive on the road but that is a bit of an issue - as you would expect! More noise testing tomorrow if the weather is better :) ----------------- Been a bit of a slow month really, but after much shouting at it I've wrapped the manifold:  It was pretty, but noisy and hot - this was the solution! Heat wrap what a PITA messy job that was! I highly recommend using gloves and a mask as the fibres go everywhere!  6 branch wrapped  Still looks pretty with the wrap on it! and a bit of wheel size testing: I've done a bit of experimenting with the rear wheel off my daily driver. It's a 9Jx17 with 245/40/R17 tyre.  9J x 17 with 245/40/R17 tyres - damn good look from the back!  Fits under the arch quite well  Nice look from the side  ... but here is the problem! The tyre rubs on the side of the bodywork. Our body work sticks a bit further out than normal due to the coil over install. I don't think it is practical to use an alloy bigger than 8.5J. You might get away with a 235 width tyre on a 9J rim but its very, very close.  Here's a comparison of size between the 9J and the standard E30 7J with 205/65/R15 ----------------- Adapter that Robin sent me for the brake servo to master cylinder, now with the edge machined down to match the silicon mould I managed to create with my previous botch job solution!  Tank out again! The final time I hope! Time to mount the heat shield. Heat shield in place - this will keep the heat of the exhaust away from the tank.  View from the back, hopefully the body will cover the shield so you can't see it  Time to Fix the old HT lead holder-y-me-jig - I did get another one of these second hand but it was banana shaped and was positioned closer to the exhaust - perhapse it was from a pre face lift. Anyway I decided to fix this one by making new feet for it.  All the brake parts back in place  ----------------- Some pictures form yesterdays progress:  Throttle cable, engine side  Throttle cable, pedal side  Water heater switch bracket  Horns  Coil heat shield ----------------- And it is time to reveal what were doing with the rear lights:  Hella LED lights  The concept 4 ring lights and 4 ring exhausts! ----------------- Not done much this weekend, taken care of a few small things such as the battery holder. Also tried running the car with the original ecu chip - no difference which is odd as it should have a lower idle than the Zone chip. Must be a sensor somewhere. One thing a number of people have said is: why didn't you rebuild the engine? At the time I lacked the confidence and skill to want to attempt it! The plan is to get the car on the road and after some shakedown time rebuild the engine! The first parts for this rebuild arrived this week, a dbilas dynamic 282°/272° cam shaft and new up rated Schrick valve springs. :)   Took some pictures of the bodywork as well:       -----------------   One way vacuum valve conversion. A left over part from Richard's E36 Compact engine conversion! Blocked off the hole in the intake boot and one of the two holes on the side of the throttle body and placed the one way valve in place of the very complex early E30 type layout. Taken the car for a quick spin on the drive way and all is well! Idle After much head scratching we purchased a Gunson gastester with build in RPM read out. Low and behold it turns out the engine is idling around 750RPM which is pretty much spot on. Its the gauge that has the wrong read out. It over reads near the bottom of the scale, sits about right at 2000RPM and above it under reads. As it's overfuelling on idle the mixture needs setting, that's for another day as I can't find the manual.... :o) --------------------- A final round of engine tuning! Decided to set the idle mixture today as the engine was very obviously running rich. Got the gunson gastester out and it verified the rich running by showing 3.5% CO. After a bit of tweaking of the idle mixture control on the AFM we got this down to around 1.2-1.3%. It's not going to be 100% and it can be fine tuned at the MOT test before SVA. Wasn't in the mood for much else after the fuel pipe off the tank started spewing petrol all over the place. Replaced the cloth covered stuff with some 3/4 rubber pipe I had in the parts bin. This was a tighter fit and also found a more suitably sized hose clip. Figures crossed it will be fine now! As it was such a nice day it seemed like the perfect time to take the car for a little spin (on the driveway at least!) Me driving the first round (mixture not adjusted) and Richard driving second after the adjustment (but the neighbours had returned so he had to be a bit more careful not to take out their car!) Download the video (12Mb) ----------------- Wiring  Richard has made excellent progress with the wiring, pretty much everything is in place now ready to go! Bodywork  Rear lights are in and the tank filler hole is drilled. The wings are not the same, the left one is longer than the right one. Makes for an interesting task lining up the lights. Rear view is nearly done, the real lights still need to go in (rather than the reflectors) the fog lights need to go on. As do the number plate lights! Also started removing the flash lines from the tub, what a PITA job! Finally a bit of future tuning news:  This is a crank from a BMW M52B28 engine, with a spacer at the front end this will drop right into the M20 block. Combined with 130mm conrods from a M20B20 and the pistons from the M20B25 this will result in a 2.8 ltr stroker engine. The parts been put in the box ready for rebuilding the engine at some point in the future. ----------------- Time has come to spend hours and hours debating where to put the gauges! After many, many permutations with print outs and bluetak here's the results:  Dash masked and all the hole centre marked from the graph paper used to precisely layout the dials  |
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| JazzMan | Tue 22 May 2007, 08:22:11 Post #48 |
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PE30 Lance Corporal
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Gauges! Hole cut and the gauges are resting in there - looks really good :D Our dad had an adjustable bit for his lathe he made many years ago which he used to cut the holes for us :)  Without 3 tones of wires hanging out and a nice cover it will look really good. ----------------- Did a lot of prep work on the bonnet side panels today. Did some initial cuts on the metal today to start fitting the panels in. Also spent a lot of time on the passenger side re fitting the door and adjusting it. For some reason the passenger side causes more trouble than the driver side!       ----------------- Bumper holes!  Rather than taking the recommend route and blindly drilling holes for the bumpers in the back and then fitting the tub around it we fitted the tub and then did the bumpers. Drawback, the mounting holes for the tub are now slightly wrong - not to bad can fill those up and move them as needed. On the + side the bumper holes are now pretty much spot on.  In order order to located the exact position of the holes we inserted a felt marker in each bumper mounting hole, put masking tape on the inside of the tub. Mounted the tub then marked out the approx position of the holes with the markers. Took the tub off and had a look. The passenger side (shock horror!) was too far up and the driver side about right. So taking the height of the driver side as the default - which is approx 25mm up from flat of the area where the fog / reverse lights are mounted. The centre to centre between the bumper mounts is 930mm so we measure 25mm up and 930mm between the two centres. The estimate from the marker was only 4mm too closer together.  To double check all the measurements we drilled a small pilot hole from the back at the marked location, making sure the drill ran parallel to the mount hole. The tub was then refitted and a visual check made through the pilot holes to make sure then were in the correct place. They looked like they were correct so we took a hole saw and cut out the final size holes, again making sure the drill ran parallel to the mounting holes. After drilling the first hole - due to it not being straight on - I though it was a full hole size out. Turns out it just my eyes and the fact that the hole is not straight on! Stuck a bumper through the hole lift the back of the tub a bit and it went right in! Repeat for hole number 2 :) Very happy these are now sitting right it was one of those things we were not looking forward to.  Spent more time on the front of the tub on the passenger side trying to get it to fit better after the bumpers were installed. Took quite a bit of material off the bottom to bring it down. Its now sitting much better but still needs some work. You may also notice the colour sample (formerly part of an E39 M5 diffuser) pretty sure this will be the cars colour, but what is it? So far the top suggestion is LeMans blue as that was a standard colour on the M5. Some of you may have seen my post on Evotechnik trying to figure out what the colour is, I've put lots of pics up here if anyone knows:   ----------------- Lots of wiring done under the bonnet :  Bumpers bolted in - the nut is welded to the top so the bumper can be taken out from the bottom. There is also a bolt in the side to stabilise it.  Additional bracket added to the striker pin plate to make it stronger. Its bolted at the bottom and held to the striker plate with a rivnut - this should serve well in pulling the bottom of the fiberglass tub into place on the passenger side.  ----------------- Spent a long time today fiddling with the tub and doors, the driver side seems fine now but the passenger side it still a little off. Had to stop to order new rivnuts, counter sunk bolts and counter sunk washers. Also ordered lot of rubber trim, door rubbers and a few supplies (an easy way to spend £150!) Found a away to stretch the scuttle! One big ass clamp in reverse! I have a second one to do the other side too.  This is how it sits now, going to let it rest a bit before moving it out further. Another important question - how did you do up the front scuttle bolts? I can't find a sensible way to get a spanner or wrench in there.  Did a bit of cutting here too, may remake these panels without the louvres.  ---------------------------  Driver side front wing, and I thought this one would be easy! If you want to stick to 7J wheels then you can bolt these one without modification. However at some point we are planning to but 8J's on the front with 225 tyres. For these to fit (and they do very snugly) the wing needs to come out a bit. For that you need chop holes on the inside - easier said than done! The holes are a bit of a mess and the bolts need to be replaces with smooth dome ones. However this was several hours of fiddling after which it was time for a break! The plan is to open out the holes a bit more so they run exactly parallel to the mounting. It's not quite on centre but it will be easy enough to open up the mounting holes underneath so they can be moved. The powder coat on the brackets cracked when we bent them (to fit a bit better) so that will need repainting. The brackets are not quite in the right place yet but its getting there.  You can take the wheels off just needs a slide out and pull from the bottom and they drop right out! --------------------------- The striker pin plate re-enforcement is complete on both sides. Each has a rivnut in place to help secure the front of the tub in place. It helps pull the passenger side in which naturally sits slightly wrong.  The counter sunk bolt and cup washer really finish it off nicely!  Also done loads of fine tuning and clean up on various fibreglass bits like the scuttle panel (to make it easier to put the front bolts in and the rear tub. As a part of this week decided to rivnut the rear wings on. This means they can be taken on or off without the tub needing to be taken off the car - a good feature should the worst happen and the wing needs to come off for repair. The rivnuts are fibreglassed at the back to reduce the chances of one spinning free and stopping the bolts form coming out.  Finally a more wiring! This time we've installed door jam switches for the interior lighting and as part of the security system:  --------------------------- Tub cutout for rear strut towers - only required because we've made the towers wider than standard to accommodate coil overs.  Driver side view - its been a long tedious process getting everything lined up, but the countless hours have been worthwhile. All the panels are held on with counter sunk bolts and cup washers. Below is a counter sunk rivnut - an excellent device that lets you put a thread for bolting items to anywhere, but more importantly being counter sunk the rivnuts endup flush with the surface they are attached to.  As you may know the passenger side has always been more of a pain, so I started here first and made one or two mistakes. The bolts on the scuttle panel should be a bit higher, and its not cut off straight. However, I plan on making new ones so those can both be fixed when the time comes! Getting the rear tub to fit this side was a challenge - its now very close, still slightly off so it may need a bit more tweaking.   Finally had time to get an old tyre swapped on to the spare, small issue though the cover is too small to fit over it!  --------------------------- Cold air will be taken directly from the outside world through this ali intake.  The chicken mesh to stop small animals nesting in the engine - and stop it sucking up larger lumps of dirt from the front wheels. Some kind of mud guard may be required on the front wheels.  --------------------------- If ever there was a job for two people its putting the bonnet on! Took a lot time of measuring, eyeing up and fiddling.  This is not 100% final yet. The whole panel is slightly over size most of the way round by around 1mm to allow for fine tuning once everything else is in place. With the clamps in place this will side nice and flat the whole way along - right now the masking tape is not holding it very well!  Hinge attached at the scuttle - will be putting a pictures of the front up too but the file for that one broke for some reason!  Biggest tip we can give here is getting a permanent marker and draw lines and guides everywhere - the rubber moves around a lot so by drawing your ideal line directly on the scuttle and nose cone you've got a line to follow. |
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| JazzMan | Tue 22 May 2007, 08:24:12 Post #49 |
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PE30 Lance Corporal
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--------------------------- Step 1: Mark a line with the bonnet off using the rubber as your guide, then place the bonnet on and use tape to run a parallel line to the one you drew with the pen.  Step 2: Run a marker along the tape and pull the tape off - we used an angle grinder with a very fine cutting disk (1mm) to cut the ali along the line. Here you can see the parallel line on the bonnet - remember that the back of the bonnet is not sitting flush so use a bit of force to push the bonnet into its final place to get the line in the right place.  With the front cut, clean up the back using the same technique - follow the red pen line with tape, run a pen along the tape and cut!  We've left a few mm each side of the bonnet panel that can be trimmed down further once everything it bolted on and clamped down.  --------------------------- Once the front and back is cut its time for the hinge cut - mark front and back then run a straight edge between the points, mark with a pen and cut!  Fitting the bonnet to the hinge - start by fitting the hinge and drilling holes along it for bolting the bonnet to - a piller drill is great for doing this. Fit the L shaped ali to the opposite side to the one your working - this will keep the hinge nice and straight!  With these clamps on here its possible to open and close the bonnet to check fit before drilling holes.  We drilled every 4th hole and bolted them to start with then moved on to the remaining ones.  Close up!  All holes drilled! That was a lot of work :)  Both sides now in place - looking good :D The L shaped ali piece that provide support underneath just fit past the engine without need to modify anything.  A short break in the rain meant another run on the drive way! It's really looking like a proper car now :)  Another shot of the completed bonnet! The sides need a bit of trimming but it's nearly there! Looks a bit hotrod ish without the headlights! Bodywork wise all it needs it a bit of tweaking! The front wings need cleaning, the rubber needs adding to the rear wings and everything needs to be made SVA friendly! --------------------------- Filler cap attached  Fog and reverse lights attached - these are just for SVA, the round ones will go on afterwards!  Bonnet clearance - just fits!  Under bonnet scuttle panels cut to shape and bolted in place.  Driver side scuttle cover - single hole for battery cable.  Passenger side panel with the same configuration as the driver side.  Modified Marlin headlight mounts - hole is milled out for the SVC headlights that have a larger diameter mount. The reason for milling rather than drilling was to move the hole back a bit - the damper mounting bolt gets the way otherwise!  Final dash wiring in progress - this is a clean up and tie down of everything.  --------------------------- The final gauge wiring is now complete, everything has been connected.   The dash lights on, at the moment the rpm & speedo lights turn on with the ignition, the light bulb holders will need to be modified so the bulbs can be wired into the same circuit as the other dash lights. This will allow them to be dimmed from the light switch.   The fuel tank was filled with 25liters if fuel to test the gauge. Success, the gauge shows half full, we need to see how accurate the gauge once we have the car on the road.  --------------------------- Due to the exhaust being really very loud with just the magnaflow boxes we've decided to add a pair of Jetex micro mufflers. The clamping method of holding pipes together proved not to be a brilliant solution so we've decided to weld all but a few of the connections.  Extra Jetex micro mufflers welded on - the bend has been welded as well.  Richard's welds are starting to get good, it was almost a shame to grind down the metal!  --------------------------- Exhaust is finished, needed one more weld on the front of the angled part to extended it a little. On the straight side the front part of the exhaust need about 8cm chopping off as the muffler was longer than the original pipe.  Only clamps left in the rear of the system. Decided to double clamp these ones to avoid any leaking.  Here it is from the back, left had side still has space for the secondary clamp, driver side will need a modified one round the muffler.  Short video: http://www.msportster.co.uk/sportster3.avi OR view directly on the site: http://www.msportster.co.uk/videos.asp --------------------------- We finished sorting out P clipping and zip tying the the fuel lines at the back, bolted down the drop links for the anti roll bar and tested the rear lights!  The rings are a bit bright for normal rear lights so I think those will need dimming - a pair of rings wired in series should do the trick! Or it needs brighter bulbs in the red centres. Needs a bit of experimenting. Also fitted two stainless hose clips on the steering rack to limit the movement to avoid damaging the brake lines - was an easy task. Take off the rubber boots put the hose clips in place and bolt down tight! |
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| RickyE30BMW | Tue 22 May 2007, 16:24:12 Post #50 |
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thats looking the nuts fella , i take my hat off to ya. :bmwdance: :bmwdance: |
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| Andy | Tue 22 May 2007, 18:30:42 Post #51 |
Site Designer
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brilliant rich!! i just want to see a vid of you steaming it down the sraightaway! sounds lush btw, looking forward to the next update :D |
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| JazzMan | Tue 22 May 2007, 20:36:42 Post #52 |
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PE30 Lance Corporal
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Thanks guys :D I'll let Rich know as well :) We're not too far off now. Body needs minor tweaking, the interior needs to be sorted, everything made SVA safe and bit of brightwork! Should be a matter of weeks then its time to book and get it through SVA before it can go on the road. Patrick. |
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M20 Powered Marlin Sportster | |
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| loopylee | Wed 23 May 2007, 21:30:26 Post #53 |
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PE30 Sergeant Major
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that sounds sweet as mate :notworthy: :notworthy: what a top project and write up lee |
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| tbmw | Thu 24 May 2007, 08:48:49 Post #54 |
PE30 Sergeant
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hell opf a project but lookin good good luck with the sva, heard they're a bit of a pig to get through first time |
 work harder millions on benefits depend on you | |
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| JazzMan | Thu 24 May 2007, 08:54:12 Post #55 |
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PE30 Lance Corporal
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Thanks :D To be honest I am expecting it to fail for something first time round - they pretty much always do! I'm hoping it will only be small things that I can fix while there at the test station. |
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M20 Powered Marlin Sportster | |
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| Mart | Thu 24 May 2007, 17:21:36 Post #56 |
Moderator
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I cant see that happening mate not with your attitude to things,but,do like my work colleauge did when he took his for the sva and take as much tackle and obscure things as you can with you "just in case". He had to "mod" his rear lights during "lunch" and luckily had enough gear with him. Good luck anyway mate!!! Mart. |
 Nice one Cloud | |
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| JazzMan | Fri 8 Jun 2007, 08:04:23 Post #57 |
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PE30 Lance Corporal
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Yesterday we did some work on the dash and bought some square steel tube to use as seat frame mounts. Today we fixed the tank which we found another leak in! After much head scratching Richard spent some more time practising a bit of ali welding - really not as easy as you might think. However the tank only need a blob on an existing weld to fix it. So we gave it a go (after a very good cleaning and a stand overnight) Here's the problem:  And here's the fix:  Took two goes, first time there was a tiny amount still coming out second time round nice an sealed up! Also spent time adding nice covers to the wiring for the head lights:    As tub has to come off to take the tank out and seal it up we spend some more time on this cleaning and adding more bolts to hold it on. Also added some sponge under here to reduce any rattles.  The other project that's been knocking about for a bit is the glove box. Would have wanted to weld this but it's just not a viable option for beginners without any training! So we riveted it instead, just don't look to closely as its not really straight ;o) But a bit of material to cover it up and that will hide the imperfections! The glove box will house the fuse box - needs a bit more tweak before it's 100%.  Also spend more time zip-tying wiring in the engine bay and adding extra support. Added one extra P clip to the fuel lines. There was one part where the distance between clips was 35cm - I think I read somewhere it needs to be every 30 at least for SVA - not sure if that right but better too many than too few! ------------------- The bonnet now has all 40 bolts, cup washers, washers and nyloc's in place. Some need to come out again as they need a bit more work with the sinker tool.  Rubber is place round the rear wings - good tip for putting holes in the rubber. Use a socket piece that's the size hole you want to use. Place it on the rubber, put in a vice. Close it up quite tight and pull the rubber of the socket bit. Now you have a nice hole in the rubber!  Exhaust is now higher up and the reverse, fog and number plate lights are wired up and working!  And the first pictures to go into the interior gallery: First custom piece on the interior taking shape  ...can you guess what it is yet?  One finished indicator stalk!   And now in the car:  The indicator stalk as been modified so that it sits further forward to clear the dash This was achieved by bend it straight then putting a new bend in further towards the end of the stalk. The original plastic piece would not fit, but this turn out much nicer than the original anyway!  ------------------ New dashboard? Not quite...  ...nope the, the vinyl covered sponge for the dash is completely the wrong shape. It was the wrong shape before stretching the dash and after it was even further out.  The bolts as per the Marlin item are glued in the metal. We've used fibre glass filler, the bolt heads have extra cuts in them for the fibres to rest in. The original Marlin sponge glued on to the new metal.  The inside edge of the metal is now trimmed out to the shape of the sponge and mounted on the scuttle. The sponge now follows the shape of the scuttle nicely. Dash and trim now in place. As you can see the gauges got very close to the trim so we've made some recesses to match the placement of the gauges.  A side shot of everything in place. The dash itself needs a bit more trimming down. The metal piece backing the sponge has a rolled edge which should cover the dash nicely.[url="http://www.msportster.co.uk/detail.asp?cat=10&offset=132"] [/URL] 
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| Mart | Fri 8 Jun 2007, 11:21:25 Post #58 |
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Yet another top item mate!! You going to put this lot into print? Mart. |
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Nice one Cloud | |
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| JazzMan | Fri 8 Jun 2007, 21:02:17 Post #59 |
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PE30 Lance Corporal
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I hadn't planned to but I did have some interest from the editor of total kitcar to do an article when it's finished. I did the site mainly because the "manual" you get with the kit is a series of not overly helpful photo's on a CD that don't cover anywhere near as much as you really need. |
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| loopylee | Wed 13 Jun 2007, 23:20:55 Post #60 |
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PE30 Sergeant Major
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this project is definately worthy of a magazine article IMHO mate :woohoo: and WHEN IT IS FEATUERED let us all know what mag its in as i guess most of the people on here will want to read it lee |
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