Removing Diff

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Removing Diff
Topic Started: Mon 18 Sep 2006, 16:45:38 (192 Views)
StuBeeDoo	Mon 18 Sep 2006, 16:45:38 Post #1
PE30 Senior Master Sergeant Posts: 3,404 Group: PE30 Members Member #15 Joined: 9-11-05 Location North East England - Tyneside to be precise	I'm assuming that you'll be doing this without the luxury of a lift or ramp. Jack the rear of the car and put axle stands under the rear jacking points. I don't need to tell you to chock the front wheels as well, do I? Pull the handbrake on hard(ish). Unbolt the propshaft from the diff flange. You'll probably only be able to do two bolts at a time, then you'll need to let the handbrake off and spin the prop 180degs and yank the brake on again to do the other two. Undo the inner CV's (allen bolts IIRC) from the diff flanges and lower the driveshafts. Again, the handbrake may have to come off and go on again. Unplug the speedo sensor wire. IIRC, all the bolts that hold the diff are 19mm hexagon. Loosen the bolt that goes through the bush in the rear case of the diff, but don't pull it out yet. Now comes the awkward bit.... Loosen the bolts into the top of the diff case. They will be very tight. When I did mine, I had to use a 2ft bar and a flank-drive socket. There was only room to move the bar a few inches at a time, but I just couldn't get enough leverage on a shorter bar to crack the bolts off. Once the bolts are loose, support the diff with a trolley jack - it's bloody heavy! When you're certain the jack is taking the weight of the diff, take the bolts right out. When you've done that, lower the jack and roll the diff off it and drag it out from under the car. If you're swapping diffs and they are not identical (i.e large case for small case), you'll have to drop the exhaust off its mounts, remove the heatshields and loosen the big nut on the slider in the centre of the prop. The prop will then need to be pushed forward slightly. Don't do the big nut up again until you've got the diff in, bolted up tight and the prop flange bolts done up. Refitting, as Mr Haynes says is reversal of removal. IIRC, it took me hours to get all four diff bolts back in. Every time I got three in, the fourth wouldn't go. If they're all as awkward as mine was, it might be quicker to drop the sub-frame with the diff still attached. If you're going to attempt this job, allow plenty of time. Don't be scared of it though. Good luck! Stuart.
	Grateful thanks to Cloud for the sigpic.


TWIGGY	Mon 11 Dec 2006, 08:43:11 Post #2
PE30 Warrant Officer Posts: 6,655 Group: PE30 Members Member #12 Joined: 9-11-05	good write up mate... ill be doing mine pretty soon stu... to be honest its the only job i was dredding :surrender: Your help makes it sound quite simple though mate, cheers pete
	Simon13 is a valid member of the Keyboard Warrior institute


Mart	Thu 28 Dec 2006, 15:15:41 Post #3
Moderator Posts: 3,464 Group: PE30 Members Member #343 Joined: 5-01-06	Good write up Stuart, hope I dont have to do it ! Mart.
	Nice one Cloud


johnl320	Thu 28 Dec 2006, 19:37:16 Post #4
PE30 Gunnery Sergeant Posts: 1,418 Group: PE30 Members Member #13 Joined: 9-11-05	Good write up Stu john
	635csi Rad--3.5 m30-- e28 flywheel--dogleg box--Shortened M3 prop--525e diff--touring ARBs--325 running gear--Jolfies leather--Saturn blue, one of 3 known left in the UK.


TWIGGY	Mon 11 Jun 2007, 17:01:06 Post #5
PE30 Warrant Officer Posts: 6,655 Group: PE30 Members Member #12 Joined: 9-11-05	Top man stu... I dont think i have the tools at home to do this though, especially the allen bolts :cry:
	Simon13 is a valid member of the Keyboard Warrior institute


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